Robin Swithinbank

This week, President Trump’s tariff on Switzerland went into effect, landing levies of 39 percent on every watch the country exports to the US. For some Swiss watchmakers, the threat is existential.

From Tiffany blue to Barbie pink, distinctive colours are driving consumer interest in a slowing watch market, helping industry giants like Rolex and startups like Norqain alike court new buyers — especially younger collectors and women.

The sector is facing double-digit sales declines and a crisis of relevance. ‘A watch has become a cultural object of sophistication… but culture has to constantly reinvent, otherwise it can disappear,’ said former Cartier boss Cyrille Vigneron.

After three years of declines, prices of pre-owned watches appear to have bottomed out.